Fillmore Mosrite Bass Saddle problem

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This week I just got my first Fillmore Mosrite and I am pretty disappointed in Fillmore's craftsmanship. Even though this is a 2nd hand bass, I still expected better quality.

First off, after I removed the old strings, the nut fell off right away. It seems like whatever glue they used to keep the nut in place could not withstand the test of time.

But that was the least of this bass's problems. The major problem that this bass has is the saddle. It is totally un-tuneable for intonation as 3 out of the 4 string posts has its screw hole drilled just a bit too high in order for the saddle screw to pass straight through it freely. Basically, I can move the saddles one way but if I want to move it back, I have to remove the whole screw and start all over again. I am thinking of either grinding down the saddle posts to make the holes lower, or expanding the holes on the actual saddle piece. Either or, I'd rather just buy a new bridge but they don't turn up too often. But what I want to ask is, has anyone has this problem before? Its annoying as heck.

Also, I was under the impression that Mosrite basses are 30 1/2' scale, and it turns out that short scale strings are too short for Mosrite basses.

[dubtrub]

Not sure if I'm understanding exactly what the problem is but I think you could possibly solve the problem by changing the strings angle of break over the bridge by removing the neck and placing (or removing) a shim as done on almost all Fender guitars. This will require raising or lowering the bridge.

Regarding the 'nut' falling off, I'm guessing you are probably referring to the metal string guide. If so there is a sequence to removing strings with out breaking the glue loose on any nut or string guide guide. If you simply start loosing them in order 1,2,3,4 the remaining tension (which there is a lot) will not pull evenly and will cause the glue to break loose. Try tightening or releasing the two outside strings first and then the two inside strings slowly and this shouldn't happen again.

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Here are some pictures showing the problem. And 3 out of the 4 saddles have this problem.


The screw hole in the saddle is clearly higher than that of the bridge.


The saddle clearly cannot be adjusted under these conditions.

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Thanks Danny! I will take that into consideration next time I change the strings. Howerver, what kind of glue would you recommend me using to blue the string guide back?

Also, for the bridge/saddle problem, should I resize the saddle hight for the screw holes to match those on the bridge or, widen the holes on the bridge in order to give more space for the screws. Either way, this bridge will need to be modified for this bass to be playable. I just want to know which way will be more effective and will less likely effect the sound.

Also, would the Hallmark bridges work on a Fillmore Bass? Because I think thats the next best option.

[dubtrub]

A couple of drops of super glue gel should solve the metal string guide problem as it should never need replacing. I'm sure you bass has a zero fret but I would not use it on a bone nut as it could cause serious problems should a new nut be required.

Regarding that bridge saddle, those are designed to create downward pressure but drilling the hole a little higher on the saddle. You may need to file ever so slight amount off the bottom off the saddle. Before doing that try reinstalling the screw by moving the saddle all the way to front of bridge. This will give you a shallower angle to start the screw in to the saddle then screw the saddle back towards the rear wall of the bridge. You will need to apply downward pressure on the saddle while accomplishing this task. If that doesn't work then the next step would be to remove a little metal off the bottom of the saddle.

The Hallmark bridge should fit but I would send Bob Shade a pm through this forum to be sure.

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Regarding that bridge saddle, those are designed to create downward pressure but drilling the hole a little higher on the saddle. You may need to file ever so slight amount off the bottom off the saddle. Before doing that try reinstalling the screw by moving the saddle all the way to front of bridge. This will give you a shallower angle to start the screw in to the saddle then screw the saddle back towards the rear wall of the bridge. You will need to apply downward pressure on the saddle while accomplishing this task. If that doesn't work then the next step would be to remove a little metal off the bottom of the saddle.

The Hallmark bridge should fit but I would send Bob Shade a pm through this forum to be sure.

Yes, it can be screwed in if I were to start the saddle at the front of the bridge and work its way back. But if I were to move the saddle back to the front of the bridge, the saddle will stay in place while the screw removes itself from the bridge. And also, if it was designed to have downward pressure as you explained, why only 3 of the saddles are like this while there is one saddle that can be adjusted freely without any tension. Its pretty confusing! Haha

Thanks!

[dubtrub]

Ok, I should have said 'ideally' they would have downward pressure otherwise you get bridge saddle rattle. I'm guessing 'looks' were primary goal and quality control was secondary. Fillmore isn't the only MIJ with quality control problems, the Kurokumo ones has their share of problems. Mass production not hand fitted as original Mosrites were.

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Good to know that the originals dont have such problems, because I am looking to get an original in the future.

Thanks a lot Danny!