mosriteforum.com

As you already know, take tons of well lit photos before disassembly detailing what connects to what, so that you have a reference to how to put it all back together.

There are two major sections to this restoration, one is purely mechanical and the second is all electronic. To do this right, you will need to tear this down to the sub-assembly level by removing all of the electronics from the chassis and then cleaning, refurbishing, rebuilding, refinishing, etc. all of the parts and then reassembling back into an amp.

The photos show damage from the fire itself and damage from the water used to put out the fire. As far as the electronics go, you have to hope that the chassis was left to completely dry out before it was plugged in and turned on. If it wasn't, then there could be all sorts of damaged done from the wet circuits being powered up. Water makes a really good conductor.

Unfortunately a lot of the electronics repairs can only be done after all of the sections are connected together back inside the chassis. Be certain to change the ac power cord to a 3-wire grounded cord and remove the ground switch capacitor.

Mr. Bill wrote:As you already know, take tons of well lit photos before disassembly detailing what connects to what, so that you have a reference to how to put it all back together.

There are two major sections to this restoration, one is purely mechanical and the second is all electronic. To do this right, you will need to tear this down to the sub-assembly level by removing all of the electronics from the chassis and then cleaning, refurbishing, rebuilding, refinishing, etc. all of the parts and then reassembling back into an amp.

The photos show damage from the fire itself and damage from the water used to put out the fire. As far as the electronics go, you have to hope that the chassis was left to completely dry out before it was plugged in and turned on. If it wasn't, then there could be all sorts of damaged done from the wet circuits being powered up. Water makes a really good conductor.

Unfortunately a lot of the electronics repairs can only be done after all of the sections are connected together back inside the chassis. Be certain to change the ac power cord to a 3-wire grounded cord and remove the ground switch capacitor.

Thank you for the tips!!

The amp arrived yesterday. I unpacked it today and did a quick once over. It actually appears to be in better condition than the photos suggested. It seems that any flames were just in the front. None of the wood is charred, none of the plastic parts are melted. Any steel parts are rusted and I am guessing that is from water. I'm going to check out the two transformer first to see if they are functional and then begin assessing everything else.

From what I have read Ed Sanner designed these amps for Mosrite Electronics. I wonder if he has any schematics for them. Any ideas?

I will ask Ed if he has the schematic. He very well may.

Thank you Bob. That would be awesome. If he has any of the amp schematics it would be great if we could archive them.

Sarah93003 wrote:Thank you Bob. That would be awesome. If he has any of the amp schematics it would be great if we could archive them.

Hi, does anyone know if this schematic ever surfaced?

I also have a 450, and the rectifier diodes are smoking when i turn it on. It has blown 1 fuse.

Thankyou! glad to be part of the forum!

According to Ed Sanner there are no schematics available for these. I would love to see photos of the inside of your head as mine is pretty rough shape. You can reach me directly at: Sarah@MosriteCelebrity.com